Welcome to Style / Substance, a weekly newsletter about personal style and confidence, the business and psychology of fashion, with features on outfit ideas, styling tips, product, and brand recommendations - all to make your life easier and to ensure you present your best self. You can subscribe here and, follow me on Instagram at @LauraKSawyier, + subscribe to my YouTube channel here. Thank you!
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Last week I was in a virtual closet with a client. We were conducting a spring closet edit. In this session, each item is examined — when and where it was worn last, what it was worn with, the fit and quality condition, and how it makes you feel.
We were moving along efficiently when she pulled out a Givenchy logo emblazoned t-shirt and flashed it on the Zoom screen. She asked if logo tees were "in or out." We paused. Though I don't necessarily approach fashion for an individual client as in or out, I do focus on modern wearability, realistic lifestyle context, and thoughtful consumption. Zeitgeist undoubtedly plays a role, consciously and subconsciously.
Her hesitation about this graphic tee shows a notable shift away from pronounced logos to a more "quiet luxury" approach to fashion. I've written about this — as did everyone else — recently, and it's one of those fashion moments making a mark. Or, really, erasing some.
“Quiet luxury is new-age minimalism with a larger focus on investment pieces and thoughtful shopping.”
-Harry Archer, Elle / Editorialist
I told her she might consider wearing it sparingly, if it's too garish for her taste. It's in good condition and fits her — so she relegated it to a workout top.
The consumer compulsion toward logos ebbs and flows, like all fashion cycles. Logomania resurged and regained traction in the late 2010s (inspired by the 90s — think Tommy, Polo, Fubu, and Gap) with the rise of streetwear and luxury product statements from Off-White, Balenciaga (before their campaign catastrophe), and most notably, Gucci under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele. The love for logos continued through the early days of the pandemic when cash was flowing into more of consumers' bank accounts, and brands and retailers were marketing reductions daily. An increase in first-time luxury buys occurred during this period, logo-ed and logo-less alike from mega brands.
But the lingua franca of fashion is starting to read more subtly. It will happen on a sliding scale. I don't see all logos disappearing. Instead, they'll appear smaller (brands be on notice), worn less often, more as a novelty, and in the right setting. We can thank the economy for this alteration of attention.
For another client recently, I did a spring/summer shoe shopping update. A pair of Gucci espadrilles were newly added to her wardrobe, with allover GG logos woven into the canvas. They're whimsy and light pink, making her happy when she wears them. That's the point. But when I sent her a dress with the GG intarsia motif, she responded that it was a little "too loud" for her. Respecting your personal style boundaries and comfort zones reigns above all else.
Though big, flashy logos are starting to trend downward right now, I wouldn't jump to offload them. For one, the price and value of these goods on the secondhand market are beginning to decline. If you're okay with that, then move it. But if you can tolerate the wait, move it to another place in your closet, stowed away for the future. Undoubtedly these pieces will recycle back to being in fashion like everything does.
And if you like a good logo moment, then fantastic! Own it.
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🧖🏼♀️ The Only Facial
Feeling comfortable in your clothes requires you to feel comfortable in your skin. Confidence requires you to feel comfortable in your skin.
I look at my skincare like I do with my fitness routine… something that requires regular, ongoing practice and maintenance. Enter, The Only Facial.
About two years ago, I was looking for a new place to get a good, deep-cleaning facial that felt like it was doing effective work for me and my face — just like a good run does for my endorphins — not just a 50-minute relaxation nap on a heated spa bed. I now go anywhere between 1-3 months for routine care. My skin is brighter, healthier, happier, and regenerative.
Here’s the thing… the company is named this because they only do one facial. It’s the same multi-step routine every time. This works for me and how I operate in my life and business. I don’t need fuss, uncertainty, or upselling when it comes to my self-care — I know you don’t, either. I go in, get my facial, pay $125, and off I go to my next activity for the day. It should be this simple, and it is with them.
The Only Facial currently operates three locations in Saint Louis: Clayton, University City, and Des Peres.
*This is a partnership post.
👑 Mother’s Day Gift Guide
Read / Watch / Listen
📚 I Have Some Questions For You by Rebecca Makkai - Makkai’s writing style is an ingenious ride for the entire read. Protagonist Brodie Kane returns to her high school to teach a podcasting class and is immediately pulled back into the murder of her high school roommate back in ‘95. It’s a tale of a flawed murder case, memory, reckoning with the past, and true-crime obsession. Couldn’t put it down.
📺 Succession - I hope you’re up to date because this season is outstanding. The acting is an artful display of skill. The writing and one-liners will go down in entertainment history. Plus, the fashion.
🎧 Smartless with Ben Affleck - First of all, I love this podcast. I’ve listened to almost every episode. It’s great for funny, mindless conversation and background noise. In this episode, I learned about Ben & Matt Damon’s early start and shared bank account when they got into acting. Jason Bateman chimes in about his role in Air. And they rip on each other while having so much love for one another. It’s a feel-good pod.
3️⃣ More Things
📿 Daily huggies: The gold and silver are both go-tos.
🧊 Depuff: Part of my morning routine these days.
🧴Restocked: I love this oil year-round for various reasons, but I use it to shave my legs in the summer months in lieu of cream. It does double duty for smooth legs.